With its 16 museums, a significant taste for associative life and international experience, the city of Sharjah surely sparks some interest. Culture has been established there for 20 years. She lives thrivingly, on the course of festivals, biennials and other ‘Heritage Days’. On the occasion of any one of the many cultural events, why not take the time to take a stroll, the instance of a weekend, in the district devoted to the arts and traditions?

Cultural walk in the dhow district…

Begin with Sharjah Art Museum. The international exhibitions that it regularly hosts mustn’t make one overlook the permanent collections: David Roberts’ lithographies are worth the detour as are Clarke’s paintings, whose theme is the unloading of British troops at "Ras Al Khyma" in the early 19th century... Then wander from left to right. By chance, in an interior court, you will certainly make a new acquaintance... To go to Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilisation, stride along the quaysides for as long as you can. An incredible amount of dhow boats appear almost piled on top of each other. In front, behind, sacks, trucks, cartons. In prolongation, one can now see a rose-coloured building with atypical round lights, that's the museum. The tour can begin. Downstairs, in the Al Haitham Gallery of Science and Technology, interactive keys allow the explanation of mechanisms: water wheel, gears, pulleys... Everything to adorn the visit for those who aren’t fond of shopping... and more: medicine, time measuring, astronomy, navigation... Impossible to name it all. Also, pass by the Abu Bakr Gallery, devoted to the Islamic cult. Beautiful exhibition of objects, miniatures, calligraphy books, and the fabulous ‘Kiswah’ all of gold, weaven in Allah’s glory. Finally, it would be a shame to leave without seeing the starry sky and the four upper galleries, wealthy of even more treasures...

Breakaway into the past

Coming back on your tracks, and crossing the art-consecrated district, you arrive to the quarter dedicated to the town’s wonderful heritage. Meandering along the alleyways will surely make one appreciate traditional Arabic architecture. Lose yourself, it’s the best way to find the right direction...In front of the ‘Majlis Ibrahim Mohammed Al Midfaa’, a tall tree emerges from an interior courtyard. We can easily imagine the conversations men would hold in this intimate little space, when the wind tower, unique in its own style, would diffuse the fresh air in the room. Several wooden doors deserve to be seen, recalling those from Zanzibar. But it is at Sharjah Heritage Museum that you will find the most information about all ancient lifestyles. The reconstitutions are delightful and pleasing to the eye.When you'll start to feel hungry, cross the gates of the Souk Al Massqoof on the lookout for a fish ‘Biryani’. The Afghan Mohamed Naim will doubtlessly be asleep, curled up in a ball, at the bottom end of his store, all filled up with dozens of necklaces made of multicoloured stones. And you might even see appearing from the neighbouring shop, Salah Saeed, the Yemenite, a cup of tea in hand. The little cafe located nearby is a place of passage from which the many different peoples can be observed. Fans on the ceiling, television, paintings hanging on the walls, we feel very much welcome amongst all nationalities.

A conserved traditional habitat

Following this passage across an incredible mix of cultures, don’t miss the ‘Bait Al Naboodah’ house, where information concerning traditional building materials will be given to you. Life in the villa, at the time when it accommodated about forty people is also well reconstituted. Very close-by as well, the residence of trader Khalid Bin Ibrahim, whilst certainly more rustic, is nonetheless just as authentic. Worth looking at before heading towards the ‘Calligraphy Museum’. Finally, the tour may come to an end with a visit to the old fort ‘Al Hisn’, evidence of the town’s rich historical past. The Eye of the Emirates, at Al Qasba By rejoining the road to Dubai, remember to pay a visit to the new district of Al Qasba. As another proof of the city’s touristic dynamism, Al Qasba is a place of rest and relaxation, mainly turned towards entertainment and leisure. Little boats hover across the pools bordering the restaurant’s ramparts.

Lovely escapade under "the Eye of the Emirates"

Once you’ve discovered it, it won’t be difficult to return to the emirate. The ‘Art and Heritage’ district, more commonly known as the ‘Old Sharjah’, represents only a small part of the city’s potential. Other museums dispersed across the city also deserve a visit...Unless you’d rather discover the splendid unspoilt beach that borders the Corniche?

Clothilde Monat (Mar/Apr09 Issue)

For more info, log onto www.sharjahmuseums.ae